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The Great Wasabi Experiment

Closeup portrait of a farmer’s muddy, gloved hands holding a freshly harvested wasabi plant
1 min

I am a great fan of wasabi, so a couple of years ago I planted “starts” in the garden of my summer home in British Columbia, near Puget Sound. Wasabi is notoriously difficult to grow – it requires plenty of water; shade to protect the leaves from sunburn; just the right mix of minerals and other soil nutrients; and two full years to reach usable size. I got the starts from wasabia.com, the main wasabi cultivators in the Northwest U.S. I love to eat wasabi in all forms, and make a point of seeking it out whenever I travel to Japan.

Be aware that what’s billed as “wasabi” in many restaurants – even expensive ones – in both the U.S. and Japan is actually a mix of horseradish, mustard and green food coloring. Indeed, it is entirely possible that even if you are a lifelong sushi eater, you’ve never actually had wasabi! The tell-tale sign of the fake stuff is a uniform lime-green color. Real wasabi paste is a variegated mix of light-green and white particles that are relatively coarse. Its flavor is far more sophisticated than that of fake stuff – a subtle interplay of spicy “heat” and vegetable/earthy notes.

To learn more about the health benefits associated with wasabi read: Wondering About Wasabi?

  • Wasabi is notoriously difficult to grow. This batch had limited growth and the leaves were completely bleached. These symptoms are common with extreme magnesium deficiency and general nutrient depletion.
  • I gave several applications of Epsom salts (a magnesium source) and a balanced organic fertilizer. Here they are one week later - coming back to life.
  • The whole wasabi, fresh from the garden. The Japanese use all parts of the plant - they grate the root to form a condiment paste for sushi, and pickle the leaves to make a spicy dish called wasabi-zuke.
  • The bare wasabi root. After two years of cultivation, this was the first one I have tried. Fantastic flavor, both hot and intricately nuanced. Wasabi root is best prepared with an ultra-fine grater known as oroshigane.
  • On a trip to Japan's Ise Peninsula, I sampled some wonderful "wasabi-zuke," which consists of pickled wasabi-plant shoots and leaves. The best I have ever tasted!
  • The sting of fresh wasabi-zuke oscillates above and below the dimensionless line that divides pain and pleasure...

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